A Feast of Kilkenny Produce

Where can I eat a meal like this in Kilkenny? The photograph may not be the best, but the flavour was superb. The roast pork was from a Kilkenny free range, Tamworth pig crossed with a wild boar - succulent, full of flavour, without being too strong, with the perfect crisp crackling.

Kilkenny Produce at its best

The classic Sharpe's Express new potatoes, the mint, the spinach and the broad beans were freshly dug and/or picked, less than an hour before consumption. The gravy was made from the rich pork juices. Such simple fresh ingredients need no elaborate sauces, in fact they make salt and pepper almost redundant.

The tender young broad beans, cooked briefly in their jackets (no need for peeling), have a immediate and delicious flavour that no picture can convey. The spinach briefly wilted, had no requirement for any seasoning and there is simply no alternative to a freshly dug new potato, steamed with some sprigs of mint. The experience is intense.

These ingredients are all easily reared and grown in Kilkenny. So, why is it so difficult to find a restaurant in County Kilkenny serving simple high quality, seasonal and local ingredients, that are squeeky fresh, at a reasonable price?

If you know of one, please email me at: kilkennyseakale@gmail.com

Traditional Style Barley, Oat and Offal Pudding

Before the introduction of potatoes in Ireland, people depended on barley and oats for their carbohydrates. We subsequently forgot how versatile these cereals are. So, here is a traditional type pudding that might have been made, in Kilkenny, 400 years ago. In the past, it would have been steamed in a cloth, bowls were not used for steaming foods until the latter half of the nineteenth century. If one was to be a purist, the bacon would not be in rasher form, as the rasher was reputedly developed in Waterford, circa 1820.

Barley, Oat, Pork Liver and Pork Kidney Pudding

RECIPE © Kilkenny Seakale

1 pork kidney roughly diced

1/4 pork liver roughly diced

1/2 pint of milk

1 large onion

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon country butter

2 cups* of barley (cooked in pork stock)

2 cups* of jellied pork stock

2 cups* of coarsely ground barley

1 cup* organic porridge oat flakes

3 free range cooked & chopped bacon rashers

1 heaped teaspoon sea salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1/4 grated nutmeg

1/3 teaspoon mixed spice

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chervil

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh thyme

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh spinach

1 tablespoon vinegar

*these cups are slightly smaller than the standard American measure

Barley, Oat & Offal Pudding made with fresh Herbs

Soak the pork liver and kidney in milk for 1 1/2 hours. Rinse, cover with water, bring to boil, then discard water and bring to boil a second time and strain immediately. Chop the cooked meat finely. Sweat the onion, with a bay leaf, in butter. Remove the bay leaf. Place the meat and onion in a bowl, along with the remaining ingredients. Mix well and place in a buttered 1 1/2 litre pudding bowl. Cover and steam for 2 hours. When cool turn out into a plate.

Barley, Oat & Offal Pudding with a tart Sloe Jam Sauce

This makes a surprisingly rich flavoured pudding, delicious when complimented by a tart sloe jam sauce, tasting somewhere between a classic Irish white pudding and a Scottish haggis.

Email: kilkennyseakale@gmail.com

Jellied Pork Stock made from a Kilkenny Pig

Two organic pigs' heads and several feet (crubeens or trotters) landed up on the kitchen table. Great food for recessionary times. The heads from these Kilkenny reared, saddle back pigs were split, one half was placed in the pot to make a parsley and lemon brawn, seasoned with nutmeg. There was enough meat to fill a large loaf tin and it will take a few days to eat it all. So, the remainder of the heads were frozen until required.

Organically reared Kilkenny Crubeens

If you are a bit squeamish about eating crubeens, you can still use them - do not let them go to waste. Use them to make a wonderful jellied stock. Boil them up, simmer for 2-3 hours with an onion, some root vegetables and whatever herbs and spices are available and suitable for flavouring stock.

Slices of Jellied Pork Stock ready for use

Once the meat begins to leave the bones, strain and reduce the stock to the required consistency (it will probably cool to a jelly without even reducing it). Any the liquid left over from the brawn, can be added to the liquid stock.

Pig's Crubeen Jellied Stock

Pour into a mould and cool. The jellied stock is ready for use. It can be sliced and frozen for later use or else use immediately for soups, stews and pies or for more adventurous recipes. At least you now know what is in your stock, unlike the stock made from a shop-bought stock cube. Stew a pork hock in this stock for extra rich flavour.

There would be no free range, happy organic pigs, if we did not eat them. These pigs were killed so that we can eat them, we should respect this and make use of every part of that pig and avoid waste. Eat less meat and better quality meat and your diet will be healthier. 

Email: kilkennyseakale@gmail.com

Pig's Head Brawn, with Lemon & Parsley

A beautiful large organic pig's head from Bennettsbridge, landed up on my kitchen table. This was a particularly meaty one and deserved special attention.

Recipe for Brawn: Place the half the pig's head in a large pan, along with some root vegetables, herbs and in this case some dry roasted spices. Cover with water and simmer slowly for about three hours.

Once cooked, the meat should be beginning to fall off the bone, discard the vegetables and herbs and remove the head from the stock. 

Boil the stock until it has reduced down, after adding juice of one lemon and a desert spoon of white wine vinegar. Add fresh parsley stalks and remove after ten minutes, for added flavour.

Pick the meat off the head, including the tongue and ear (if you wish). Discard the surplus fat and bone.

Place the diced meat in a bowl and season well, with teaspoon salt, desertspoon of ground black pepper, about a third of a nutmeg, grated and a teaspoon of allspice. Added the grated rind of one lemon and several spoonfuls of chopped, fresh parsley. 

Prepare a dish or a mould by greasing it with butter and placing a slice of lemon and a little parsley on the bottom.

Mix the meat, herbs and spices well. Then gently place in mould, and pour on your simmering stock, which should have reduced enough, so that it just fills your mould with the meat in it.

One it has cooled down, place in fridge for several hours until set. To remove from mould, place it briefly in hot water for a few seconds and then run a sharp knife around the edge, place a plate on top of mould and invert and tap gently until the jellied brawn drops out.

Slice and eat cold, with some homemade chutney or pickle. If your friends are squimish, tell them that it is a pork terrine and they will love it. If we eat meat, we should respect the animal that we are eating and not waste good meat, we should always endevour to make use of the entire animal. This is a pleasure and not an ordeal.

Email: kilkennyseakale@gmail.com