More Preserves from Nashtown Castle

Continuing the family tradition of preserving our own home grown heritage vegetables and preserving locally foraged fruit when there is a surplus, allows us to enjoy them all year round. Nashtown Castle Preserves and Pickles are now available in Glasrai & Goodies in Gowran, County Kilkenny and Phelans' Vegetable Shop in Ormond Street, Kilkenny.

Nashtown Castle pickles, jellies and chutneys ready for sale

Nashtown Castle Wild Crab Apple Jelly is created with foraged wild crab apples growing in the local wild hedgerows. 2012 was a bad year for apples, we found one special wild tree that yielded all the crab apples that were required.

Nashtown Castle Sloe & Crab Apple Jelly Not only was 2012 a bad year for apples, it was also a poor year for sloes. However, some careful sleuthing in the nearby woods located enough to make this special jelly. We had to watch and wait until the first frosts came along before we picked them, to allow the sloes to develop a little sweetness. 

Nashtown Castle Pickled Red Cabbage We grow our own red cabbage, it only travels a few yards from where it grows, to the pickling bowl in the kitchen. A stunningly beautiful vegetable, when cut in half, it always seems a shame to slice it up. We love to eat it raw, freshly grated in a coleslaw. We preserve it by pickling it, so we can continue to eat it out of season.

Nashtown Castle Apple & Lavender Jelly One of the greatest pleasures of gardening is picking your own home grown lavender, while the perfume swirls around. The lavender bags are emptied every year, refilled and replaced around the house to deter moths. The remaining lavender is infused to make a herbal tea and it is that juice that is added to this beautiful clear jelly. Having very few apples this year, we raided our neighbour's neglected old orchard, full of old, flavorsome varieties of apples to produce this jelly.

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Sea Kale "Crambe Maritima" Root

Sea Kale is the perfect food plant, every part is edible. It is believed to have been a staple of our Irish ancestors, as they foraged for food along the sea shore.
Having experimented with eating various parts of the plant, the root remained untested. So today, when thinning out the plants and accidentally digging up a large section of tap root, it was time to try it out in the kitchen.

Sea Kale "Crambe Maritima" Root

Knowing that our recipe books were not going to be of assistance, it was to Ray Mears and Gordon Hillman's Wild Food that we turned. They confirmed that that the roots of Crambe Maritima were indeed edible, both when eaten raw and cooked.
Despite Ray Mears' preference for raw seakale root, it was found not to be particularly appetising - faintly remeniscent of raw turnip and quite fibrous, when compared to the more pleasing raw scorzonera root, dug at the same time, for comparison purposes. Next step, was to roast the two roots alongside carrots, onion, celeriac and pumpkin.
The sea kale root was improved by cooking - tasting quite starchy, but unable to compete with the scorzonera and other roots. There is no doubt that it definitely requires some very special culinary expertise, way beyond our capabilities.
Moral of the story: foraged foods may be nutritious and good for you, but there is often a very good reason why they are not more commonly eaten.
If anyone has had a better experience, it would be good to hear about it.

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Jerusalem Artichokes - Helianthus tuberosus

Jerusalem Artichokes (not to be confused with Globe Artichokes) are related to the sunflower. They are native to the eastern states of the North American continent and were extensively cultivated by the native peoples living there. The misleading name is believed to refer to Ter Neusen, the location at which they were grown in Holland, following their introduction to Europe, via France. This being only one of many explanations: that when the tubers were first brought to England, they were known as Artischokappeln van Ter Neusen, which became corrupted to Jerusalem Artichoke. 

Freshly dug Jerusalem Artichokes for sale at Glasrai & Goodies, Gowran, Co. Kilkenny

Tighe in his Statisical Survey of Kilkenny, 1801, mentions that they were grown in the county as a fodder crop for sheep. This should not put anyone off cooking them, as they make a delicious soup and the two recipes below, taken from Maura Laverty's Full & Plenty, 1960, are well worth trying.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES

This root vegetable deserves to figure more often on the menu. But it needs care in cooking. If artichokes are allowed to continue cooking after the have become tender, they are liable to become tough again.

Wash and scrub the artichokes and drop them into boiling water. Cook them, covered, until they are tender. After 15 mins. Test with a skewer.

Drain them and keep them in a hot place while you prepare the following dressing: Melt 2 tablespoons butter. Add 1 teaspoon mild white vinegar or dry white wine. Add 2 teaspoons chopped parsley. Pour this dressing over the artichokes and serve at once.

CREAMED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES

Cook the artichokes as above. Drain them well and pour over enough cream sauce to make a good topping (about ½ pint cream sauce to 1½ lbs artichokes). Sprinkle thickly with chopped parsley.

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Nashtown Castle Pickles & Preserves

SLOW FOOD, REAL FOOD
The garden and orchard surrounding the site of Nashtown Castle, are located on some of the best quality limestone land in Kilkenny, ideal for growing vegetables and fruit. In 1778, references to the adjoining farm indicate that good quality cider apples and potatoes were being successfully grown here. By 1801, a peach house and a green house were in existance - great status symbols, in their day.

Nashtown Castle Pickles and Preserves

We have a surplus of fruit and vegetables, grown on this exceptionally fertile soil. So, in accordance with our waste, not want not philosophy, we pickle and preserve that surplus. Having respect for the plants so carefully nurtured, we only use the best quality real ingredients to mix with them when creating our pickles and preserves. If we can find local and Irish ones of sufficient quality, then we use them in preference.

Nashtown Pickles and Hedgerow Jelly

Nashtown Castle Green Tomato Pickle is made with heritage varieties of tomatoes and is based on a Canadian Chow Chow recipe, using cider vinegar from Tipperary and Malvern sea salt, with tumeric which is reputed to have many healthy properties.
Nashtown Castle Green Tomato Chutney is created with the same home grown tomatoes, along with our neighbours' apples (our trees were bare this year) and our own white onions and garlic. This chutney is based on an old fashioned classic recipe. The more mature this chutney becomes, the better it tastes.
Nashtown Castle Cucumber Pickle consists of the 3 different types of cucumbers grown here combined with our white onions and our mild garlic.
Nashtown Castle Hedgerow Jelly is always a joy to make. It depends entirely on the autumnal wild fruits that are available to us, as we forage around the local hedgerows. Each year is different. This year elderberries were few in number, the blackberries were late, some normally dependable crab apple trees had no fruit on them, however the rose hips and haws were plentiful.

Nashtown Castle pickles and preserves are made in small batches using seasonal produce, so when they run out, we have to wait until the following year before we make more. Recipes maybe altered to reflect availability of local products.

Nashtown Castle pickles and preserves are available from Glasrai & Goodies, in Gowran, County Kilkenny, Ireland and in Phelans' vegetable shop on Ormond Street, in Kilkenny City, Ireland.

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Boxty - potato bread

BOXTY - Not a Kilkenny Tradition, but made with Kilkenny Flour.

Three different types of Boxty

Boxty is a potato bread, made with wheat flour and potatoes. Traditionally cooked on a griddle or pan over an open fire, particularly in counties like Leitrim and Longford. The Boxty in this photo is interesting, although all three types are made with Mosse's flour from County Kilkenny, they vary greatly from a pancake version to a loaf-like one.

Potato breads and cakes are thought of as typically Irish food, however, it should be remembered that few potatoes were eaten in Ireland, prior to the eighteenth century.

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Achocha - Cyclanthera Pedata

Achocha is a South American Cucumber, it originated in the Andes and is reputed to be one of the lost foods of the Incas. This one self seeded itself in my garden and the vine was so pretty that it was left alone.

Achocha with Chervil

The small prickly fruit can be used in most cucumber recipes and are delicious when eaten raw, when picked young. They have a lovely crunch and the prickles makes them an interesting challenge for children.

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Cucumbers Pickled in Gin

Cucumbers are thought to have originated in India and were probably cultivated in Western Asia for at least a thousand years before their introduction to Europe. The Romans were fond of them, perhaps they introduced them to Britain. After their reintroduction, the Victorians became fond of growing them in hot beds.
A large range of varieties grow well in Kilkenny and fruit freely, provided they are protected by a greenhouse or polytunnel.

Freshly picked Cucumbers, grown in Kilkenny

Our cucumber plants have produced a glut of cucumbers and it became imperative act quickly to preserve some for the lean winter months, before the frost hit them. Different varieties produce different sized cucumbers, there are a vast range of types. This recipe uses medium sized ones.

Cucumber pickled in Gin

It is important to use the best quality gin you can afford, in this case it was a certain gin, that is flavoured by cucumbers, and is thus particularly suitable.

RECIPE

Ingredients:

2 medium sized cucumbers, thinly sliced

200 ml white wine vinegar

100 ml good quality gin

I homegrown whole green chili, thinly sliced

1/2 homegrown onion, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons finely chopped mint

Zest of 1 lime

4 juniper berries

2 teaspoons of sea salt

1 teaspoon sugar

3-4 drops lime oil

Add the salt to the cucumbers (in this case, one was left with its skin on and the other has its skin removed) and onion in a bowl with the chili, then weigh them down with a heavy plate for approx three hours. Then rinse.

Heat up the vinegar, juniper, sugar and lime zest. Bring to boil, add the cucumbers, onion and chili. Simmer for a couple of minutes, then add freshly picked and chopped mint and the gin and then place in sterilised jars.

This pickle makes a wonderful compliment to cold beef.

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Kilkenny Hops - Humulus Lupulus

September is the time of year to harvest your own hops (humulus lupulus) to brew beer. Kilkenny used to be famous for its hop farms, but no longer. This does not mean that you cannot cultivate your own: they are easily grown, just keep them out of the wind and give them something to climb up.

Hops growing in County Kilkenny

The petals from the green hop flowers make an interesting substitute for fresh basil in tomato dishes, such as the one below.

Heirloom/heritage tomatoes and hops on toast

Heritage Tomatoes with Hops on Toasted Brown Bread
To make the tomato paste, roughly chop some freshly picked tomatoes and place in bowl with a little chopped onion, add sea salt, freshly squeezed home grown garlic, olive oil, sea salt and ground pepper. Tear the petals of two hop flowers, mix into the tomato paste. Add the mixture to some brown bread or half a brown bread roll and place in a medium for about 15 minutes, then top with a few extra hop petals for a seasonal snack.

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Coq au Vin - Marinated Cockerel

Breeding your own fowl is not always as simple as it might seem. This year a broody hen hatched out some chicks, as the stock needed replenishing. The older hens were no longer laying well and it was time to breed some more, to replace them.

How to hang a cockerel

Problem was that after a hawk attack there were only four chicks remaining, three of which turned out to be cockerels. One of these would be kept to replace the old rooster, and the other two were destined for the pot. There is no other practical use for surplus cockerels, they had a jolly life, being utterly and completely free range, more so than most poultry can ever expect - but their number was up.

When the time came to do the dirty deed, the birds were starved that day - no point in wasting good hen food, and it makes them easier to clean out.

Not much here would pass current health and safety standards and yet killing your own fowl is perfectly natural, something that mankind has practised for thousands of years, without any bother. The birds led a charmed and healthy life until they met a quick clean and sudden end. Two ways of doing this: either by wringing their necks or chopping off their heads, the latter was chosen in this case.

Plucking a cockerel

The two young cockerels, were killed at night and were totally unaware of the fate that awaited them. They were hung by the legs over night (game birds are hung by the neck). The next morning they were plucked, heads and feet removed (if we were in another country, these would not be wasted). The birds were then gutted, taking care to put the hearts, livers and gizzards aside. When did you last eat a gizzard in Ireland? - A delicacy in France, commonly eaten there and yet we are told the EU will not allow us to eat them. Try making a gizzard salad and a liver pate with garlic, thyme and brandy.

RECIPE FOR COQ AU VIN

1 bottle of Beaujolais wine or a decent red Burgundy

Carrot, white turnip and a a couple of sticks of celery

Parsley stalks, thyme, bay leaves, garlic, onion & black pepper for marinade

Goose grease

Onion

Mushrooms

Smoked bacon lardons

Brandy

Salt & pepper

Joint the birds, these ones were not specially fattened for the table, but, there was still plenty of eating on them. Then cover with red wine, add a small chopped onion or shallot, some carrot, celery and white turnip along with a few dried bay leaves, a couple of cloves of garlic, fresh thyme and lots of freshly ground black pepper, cover and leave in fridge over night. The carcasses were put aside to make a wonderful stock for soup.

Coq au vin in marinade

The next morning, remove the meat from the marinade, strain the juice and put to one side. Brown the meat in the goose grease, remove from the pan. Brown onions, add lardons and mushrooms and brown them. Remove from pan, add a few tablespoons of brandy to the pan juices and flambé. Add all ingredients including the strained marinade and cook very slowly until the meat is almost falling off the bone, correct seasoning and a wonderful feast awaits you.

Feathers added to the compost heap

Don't waste the feathers, place them onto the compost heap, they will soon break down. Peace now reigns in the yard, no roosters fighting and the remaining hens are relieved they now only have to cope with one rooster. 

Peace reigns in a Kilkenny yard again

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Is it a Cabbage or a Turnip? Kohlrabi

Is it a cabbage or is it a turnip?

Kohlrabi is a mysterious vegetable that is a hybrid cross between the two.

The leaves and the swollen stem may both be eaten, but it is grown for its swollen stem.

A popular vegetable in Germany and Italy in the nineteenth century, the Italians ate it before the stem grew any larger than a hen's egg, while the German's preferred it fully grown.

Red Kohlrabi grown in Co. Kilkenny

Kohlrabi can be eaten raw in salads or cooked. There is a school of thought that believes its distinctive flavour is mainly in the skin and near it, so it is probably best steamed intact until tender. Then it can be peeled, if required, and sliced. Also, delicious, when simply roasted - just peel, roughly dice along with other root vegetables, some onion and herbs, mix with olive oil and roast until tender.

The leaves are also good for eating and are best treated like kale. Easily grown in County Kilkenny, so give it a go.

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A Feast of Kilkenny Produce

Where can I eat a meal like this in Kilkenny? The photograph may not be the best, but the flavour was superb. The roast pork was from a Kilkenny free range, Tamworth pig crossed with a wild boar - succulent, full of flavour, without being too strong, with the perfect crisp crackling.

Kilkenny Produce at its best

The classic Sharpe's Express new potatoes, the mint, the spinach and the broad beans were freshly dug and/or picked, less than an hour before consumption. The gravy was made from the rich pork juices. Such simple fresh ingredients need no elaborate sauces, in fact they make salt and pepper almost redundant.

The tender young broad beans, cooked briefly in their jackets (no need for peeling), have a immediate and delicious flavour that no picture can convey. The spinach briefly wilted, had no requirement for any seasoning and there is simply no alternative to a freshly dug new potato, steamed with some sprigs of mint. The experience is intense.

These ingredients are all easily reared and grown in Kilkenny. So, why is it so difficult to find a restaurant in County Kilkenny serving simple high quality, seasonal and local ingredients, that are squeeky fresh, at a reasonable price?

If you know of one, please email me at: kilkennyseakale@gmail.com

The Unfashionable Cauliflower

The unfashionable Cauliflowers Brassica oleracea var botrytis have been excellent this year and well behaved. They have had the decency not to produce their white curds all at the same time.

A freshly harvested Kilkenny Cauliflower

According to Sir Ghillean Prance and Mark Nesbitt in the "Cultural History of Plants", 2005, the Cauliflower probably originated in Cyprus and was cultivated in Italy in the 15th century. By the end of the eighteenth century, it was a popular vegetable. It was one of the vegetables that John M'Craith, nursery and seedsman, was offering for sale in Kilkenny in 1827 and it is fair to assume that it has been grown and eaten in Kilkenny since then.
Vilmorin-Andrieux and Robinson list 18 different varieties in 1920, including dwarf, giant and purple varieties. These days, the popularity of cauliflower (easily grown in Co. Kilkenny), is waning in favour of imported vegetables.
Best eaten as soon as it is harvested, delicious raw or gently steamed. It makes great purees and soups; the possibilities are endless. A fresh, lightly cooked Cauliflower needs little seasoning, just a bit of grated nutmeg will compliment it. When buying Cauliflowers, look out for ones with good, long crisp green leaves and cook these along with the florets, to enhance your dish.
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Traditional Style Barley, Oat and Offal Pudding

Before the introduction of potatoes in Ireland, people depended on barley and oats for their carbohydrates. We subsequently forgot how versatile these cereals are. So, here is a traditional type pudding that might have been made, in Kilkenny, 400 years ago. In the past, it would have been steamed in a cloth, bowls were not used for steaming foods until the latter half of the nineteenth century. If one was to be a purist, the bacon would not be in rasher form, as the rasher was reputedly developed in Waterford, circa 1820.

Barley, Oat, Pork Liver and Pork Kidney Pudding

RECIPE © Kilkenny Seakale

1 pork kidney roughly diced

1/4 pork liver roughly diced

1/2 pint of milk

1 large onion

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon country butter

2 cups* of barley (cooked in pork stock)

2 cups* of jellied pork stock

2 cups* of coarsely ground barley

1 cup* organic porridge oat flakes

3 free range cooked & chopped bacon rashers

1 heaped teaspoon sea salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1/4 grated nutmeg

1/3 teaspoon mixed spice

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chervil

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh thyme

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh spinach

1 tablespoon vinegar

*these cups are slightly smaller than the standard American measure

Barley, Oat & Offal Pudding made with fresh Herbs

Soak the pork liver and kidney in milk for 1 1/2 hours. Rinse, cover with water, bring to boil, then discard water and bring to boil a second time and strain immediately. Chop the cooked meat finely. Sweat the onion, with a bay leaf, in butter. Remove the bay leaf. Place the meat and onion in a bowl, along with the remaining ingredients. Mix well and place in a buttered 1 1/2 litre pudding bowl. Cover and steam for 2 hours. When cool turn out into a plate.

Barley, Oat & Offal Pudding with a tart Sloe Jam Sauce

This makes a surprisingly rich flavoured pudding, delicious when complimented by a tart sloe jam sauce, tasting somewhere between a classic Irish white pudding and a Scottish haggis.

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Jellied Pork Stock made from a Kilkenny Pig

Two organic pigs' heads and several feet (crubeens or trotters) landed up on the kitchen table. Great food for recessionary times. The heads from these Kilkenny reared, saddle back pigs were split, one half was placed in the pot to make a parsley and lemon brawn, seasoned with nutmeg. There was enough meat to fill a large loaf tin and it will take a few days to eat it all. So, the remainder of the heads were frozen until required.

Organically reared Kilkenny Crubeens

If you are a bit squeamish about eating crubeens, you can still use them - do not let them go to waste. Use them to make a wonderful jellied stock. Boil them up, simmer for 2-3 hours with an onion, some root vegetables and whatever herbs and spices are available and suitable for flavouring stock.

Slices of Jellied Pork Stock ready for use

Once the meat begins to leave the bones, strain and reduce the stock to the required consistency (it will probably cool to a jelly without even reducing it). Any the liquid left over from the brawn, can be added to the liquid stock.

Pig's Crubeen Jellied Stock

Pour into a mould and cool. The jellied stock is ready for use. It can be sliced and frozen for later use or else use immediately for soups, stews and pies or for more adventurous recipes. At least you now know what is in your stock, unlike the stock made from a shop-bought stock cube. Stew a pork hock in this stock for extra rich flavour.

There would be no free range, happy organic pigs, if we did not eat them. These pigs were killed so that we can eat them, we should respect this and make use of every part of that pig and avoid waste. Eat less meat and better quality meat and your diet will be healthier. 

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Nettle Soup

Irish Restaurants seldom serve Irish food, so your only hope is to make it yourself. Nettle Soup is a classic, traditional and delicious dish, cheap and easy to make. Young nettles are plentiful and easily found by even the most reticent of foragers.

Wild Nettles (Urtica Doica) growing in County Kilkenny

Pick young nettle tops, using rubber gloves, you can pick them without gloves if you know how to grab the stems and leaves, without getting stung.

Apologies to Darina Allen for corrupting her recipe.

RECIPE
Large bunch nettles
Tablespoon of butter
3 shallots or 1 onion or leeks
1 medium Golden Wonder Potato
1 litre good quality homemade chicken stock

Freshly picked Nettles (Urtica Doica)

Melt the butter until bubbling, add finely chopped shallots and well diced Golden Wonder potato, add a little salt and pepper. Cover and cook over a low heat until the potato is soft. Add the stock and simmer for a couple of minutes, then add the chopped nettles, cook for another couple of minutes.

Nettle Soup

Puree the mixture in a blender until smooth (originally, it would have put through a hair sieve) and reheat before serving. A delicious Irish country soup, the traditional recipe would not have used potato, an introduced species - oatmeal or some other cereal would have been used instead.

According to Ray Mears and Gordon Hillman, Stinging Nettles (Urtica Doica) are a very good source of protein, as well as vitamins C & B, calcium, potassium iron, phosphorous, magnesium etc. So, give it a go...

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Nettle and Barley Pudding - An Experiment

It is time to go foraging for Nettles, they are now in season, here in County Kilkenny.

Bunch of Freshly Picked Nettles

Best eaten tender, soon after emerging from their winter slumber.  When picking them, wear rubber gloves, so you will not be stung. This recipe calls for a decent bunch. Make sure they are growing in a spot where they have not been sprayed, away from a road and preferably where there are no livestock grazing.

Added ingredients: leeks, sorrel, watercress, thyme & chives

This recipe is based on an ancient type of pudding, commonly eaten in the past. 

Puddings, nowadays, apart from blood puddings, are usually regarded as sweet dishes, but this was not always the case. Originally, they were placed in an animal's stomach, like the modern Scottish haggis. From the seventeenth century, puddings, generally savory, wrapped in a cloth and thus cooked. Later, in second half of the nineteenth century, they were placed in a pudding basin and steamed. 

Barley and Nettle Pudding being placed in Lamb Stock

RECIPE

Lamb, ham or chicken stock

Barley (pearl barley was used in this case)

Bunch of nettles

Bunch of watercress

Bunch of sorrel

2 leeks

Chives

1 wild garlic leaf

Sprigs of thyme

Salt

The barley was soaked before hand, in lamb stock and then drained (there is a similar version of this recipe, that uses barley flour). The greens were finely chopped, added to the barley, along with some sea salt, mixed together.  Some of the larger leaves were held aside and used to line the pudding cloth, and to wrap the pudding. It was then tied up and cooked in a saucepan of lamb stock for an hour and a half.

Nettle and Barley Pudding

VERDICT

The pudding should have been opened, once it had cooled, but being in a hurry to taste it, it was opened while still steaming - so it lost its shape! It was wonderfully tasty, and was eaten with some locally produced lamb. It is likely that in medieval times, all sorts of exotic foreign spices (of which they were so fond), would have been added - by those who could afford it. 

Next time, I am going to try the barley flour version, it is an inspirational dish: traditional, healthy, cheap, local and seasonal. 

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Real Mint Sauce for Easter Lamb

Have you ever gone out to dinner, ordered lamb and mint sauce? The lamb was delicious, but the mint sauce was a disappointing nasty, vinegary mess, out of some mass produced jar - sadly, this is a common scenario for which there is absolutely no need.

Homemade Mint Sauce made from a mixture of Applemint and Spearmint.

Mint is one of the easiest herbs to grow in County Kilkenny, so much so, it can become a weed in the garden, if not kept under control. Spear Mint (Mentha Speicata) is used here, along with Apple Mint (Mentha Sauveolens), both can be grown in an old pot or bucket.

Mint Sauce is the simplest of sauces to make, there is no excuse for not giving it a go. It is a very good example of how one can be thrifty and still enjoy good food, by complimenting it with a quality sauce, at virtually no cost.

RECIPE
Pick a bunch of young sprigs of mint
Tear the leaves from the stems
Chop the leaves, finely
Place in bowl, cover with boiling water
Add teaspoon of sugar, vinegar to taste and a pinch of salt.
Leave to cool and serve.

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Sea Kale in Season

SEA KALE (Crambe Maritima). 
Available from Glasrai and Goodies in Gowran.

A native Irish plant that grows on shingle beaches - so not to be found in County Kilkenny. It has become quite rare in the wild, so be sure to use only cultivated plants.

Sea Kale ready to be picked.

In prehistoric times, before the domestication of cereal crops, the root was an important source of carbohydrates, for the hunter-gatherer. The whole plant can be eaten, but usually it is the blanched young shoots, with their slightly nut like flavour, that are most sought after. In the past, shingle was heaped up around wild plants, growing along the edges of such beaches. This had the effect of blanching the plants.

Peron, J.Y., Gouget, M., Declercq, B., 1991 in their Composition nutritionnelle du Crambe Maritime reveal that Sea Kale not only tastes great but has a high protein and fibre content, a high quantity of potassium/low sodium and excellent calcium/phosphorus ratio, and contains good vitamins such as thiamine (Vitamin B1).

Freshly picked Sea Kale, showing blanched shoots and unblanched leaves.

In 1827, John M'Craith, a Kilkenny nurseryman, advertised Sea Kale plants for sale, alongside "Stove and Greenhouse Exotics". In 1834, specimens were successfully exhibited, from the Bishop of Ossory's gardens, by Mr. Monk (who, presumably, was the Bishop's head gardener), at the Kilkenny Horticultural Society's show.

It was a great favourite of the Victorians and Edwardians, but the vogue for Sea Kale declined with the demise of the walled vegetable garden.

Cooked blanched Sea Kale (top) and cooked unblanched Sea Kale leaves (below).

HOW TO COOK

Drop into boiling salted water and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes, until just tender. Drain pour melted butter over and sprinkle a little chopped parsley and serve. 

Young, unblanched leaves are pleasant to eat, if cooked in a similar manner, but lack the subtle nuances of the paler shoots.

Such a delicious vegetable deserves greater recognition, easily cooked, is worthy of further culinary exploration. 

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St. Patrick's Day Salad

A WILD & SEASONAL, GREEN SALAD FOR ST. PATRICK'S DAY

Watercress, Sorrel and Wild Garlic Salad.

A salad composed of plants readily available in St. Patrick's time, that have would have been well known by anyone living in Ireland, in the 5th century AD. We forget that so many of our common 21 st century vegetables and salad plants are comparatively recent introductions to Ireland and would have been unknown to our ancestors.

The days are lenghtening, tender wild spring greens, packed with vitamins and other goodies are emerging. The slugs have beaten me to the sorrel, but there are still enough new shoots for a tasty St. Patrick's Day salad.

Wild Kilkenny Garlic

The young, wild garlic (Allium ursinum) grows in profusion in County Kilkenny, in hedgerows and on the woodland edges. Look out for the distinctive garlic smell, as you crush it under foot. A few well chosen leaves is all that is required, or alternatively break up the leaves and rub the inside of the salad bowl with them.

Sorrel

Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) , like spinach, contains oxalic acid, so it is best eaten when young. It has a slightly bitter but pleasant taste. Sorrel can be used in sauces and soups. Not to be confused with the shamrock-like leafed wood sorrel (Oxalis acetosella)), which has a similar flavour. 

Watercress

Be careful when picking watercress (Nasturtium officinale), make sure that your source is a clean one, watercress can act as a host to Fasciola Hepatica more commonly known as liver fluke. The water in the watercourse, should be clean, fast flowing and away from animals. Boiling will kill the fluke larvae, but it is best avoided, if you suspect the watercress might be infected. It is easily grown at home under controlled conditions.

St. Patrick's Day Salad on a bed of Shamrock

RECIPE
For a St. Patrick's Day Salad, pick the young leaves (go easy on the garlic - unless you like a very strong flavour), wash them well and place in the salad bowl and add a little honey and some apple verjus and you have a salad that St. Patrick would recognise.

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Chervil Soup

CHERVIL SOUP, WITH LEEKS & POTATOES
Chervil (Anthriscus Cerefolium). An easily grown, aromatic, spring herb with a subtle aniseed flavour. Delicious with eggs, ham and in soups, at a time of year when other fragrant herbs, like tarragon, are out of season. 

Chervil, a cousin of the carrot and of parsley, probably introduced from
south west Russia and/or south eastern Europe.

INGREDIENTS FOR CHERVIL SOUP

Leeks, sliced potatoes, homemade stock and a large fistful of Chervil.

Chervil, Leeks & Pink, Fir Apple Potatoes

CHERVIL SOUP RECIPE

To make Chervil Soup, sweat sliced leeks until soft, then add sliced potatoes (in this case, Pink Fir Apple potatoes were used, no need to peel them). Add stock and cook until the potatoes are soft, then add a large handful of chopped, bruised chervil. 

Cook for a couple of minutes, then whizz to the desired consistency and correct the seasoning.

Chervil Soup

Serve in warmed bowls with a little organic Irish yogurt and a sprinkle of chopped chervil. If bruised before use, it will release its flavour more readily, makes an interesting replacement for parsley. 

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Sea Kale on the first day of Spring

The Sea Kale plants were checked today to ensure that all was well and that the pesky slugs had not launched an attack.

Blanched young Sea Kale shoots

The plants have spent the winter under terracotta pots, excluded from all light. The new blanched shoots are beginning to sprout and are doing well under their upturned pots. The shoots are blanched, not forced, and are allowed to develope in their own natural time.

In a few weeks time, they will be ready for cutting and they will be available for sale in Glasrai & Goodies shop in Gowran, County Kilkenny.

Look out for them so you can eat them when freshly cut.
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Purple Sprouting Broccoli

A delicious, welcome spring vegetable that even the most incompetent Kilkenny gardener can grow, provided they have a sheltered spot. A descendant of the wild cabbage, found in the Eastern Mediterranean, and a cousin of the cauliflower.  Gradually, it evolved into the vegetable that we now know as, Purple Sprouting Broccoli, and made its way up through Italy into Northern Europe and thus to Ireland in the early eighteenth century.

Purple Sprouting Broccoli waiting to be picked

Not to be confused with the Italian Calabrese that is commonly seen in our supermarkets, the Purple Sprouting Broccoli has a fresher, more delicate flavour and melts in the mouth when cooked.

A welcome green vegetable at a time of year when edible, seasonal, greenery, locally grown is difficult to find. The small purple heads are made up of tiny flower buds on little stems, these are picked and eaten before they open.

Purple Sprouting Broccoli waiting to be cooked

Traditionally, after picking they were tied into small bunches and placed in boiling water standing up, so that the stems were in the water and the heads were steamed. If life is too short for such niceties, just throw them into boiling water, for not more than 5 minutes, or steam them, until barely tender.

Steaming Purple Sprouting Broccoli waiting to be eaten

The shorter the time between picking and eating vegetables, the more flavoursome they will be and the more nutritous they are. So, try and source locally grown vegetables, snap them up whenever they appear in your local shop, cook them as soon as you can, then they will be squeaky fresh when you taste them.

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Eating Brussels Spouts in County Kilkenny, in February

It is time to think about sowing next year's vegetables. Time to check out last year's seeds, some of which were saved and others bought. Not all were put away properly and some have not survived the winter months as well as they should have. Last year's Brussels Sprouts were planted late in June which was a little late. So, to avoid forgetting about them, the Brussels Sprouts seeds have already been sown.

Brussels Sprouts ready for picking

An interesting vegetable, descended from the wild cabbage, Brussels Sprouts were cultivated in Belgium, probably improving an older variety, which may have been known by the Romans. When introduced to Ireland, it was found that they grew well here. Just 8-10 plants will yield more than enough for a small family.

Meanwhile, we are eating our current crop. For those who claim to have an intense dislike of Brussels Sprouts, try growing your own, pick them when they are young and small. Cook them whole (immediately after picking), in fast boiling water, for not more than five minutes.

Freshly picked Brussels Sprouts, briefly cooked and ready for eating

Drain, add a small amount of good quality locally made butter and eat at once.

They will be very far removed from the soggy, smelly, yellowing vegetable that so often passes as Brussels Sprouts. Try finely grating raw Brussels Sprouts into a salad for a novel addition. The leaves and plant tops also make great eating, at a time when there is a limited choice of vegetables in the garden. Stir fry the shredded shoots and/or leaves or be brave and try Darina Allen's recommendation: peel the stalk and dice it up before cooking. There will not be much of the plant left, to go onto the compost heap…
So waste not, want not....

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A Kilkenny February Salad

With a little care and protection salad leaves can easily be grown in Kilkenny, at all times of the year. This February Salad is made up of the thinings from Cos lettuce plants, young sprigs of watercress and blanched chicons.

A freshly picked Kilkenny February Salad

The dressing consists of Irish rape seed oil, homemade verjus, honey from the bees in the yard and a small amount of finely chopped fresh parsley, fresh thyme, fresh sage and fresh rosemary. All the ingredients originated within a few square yards of each other in rural Kilkenny, with the exception of the oil.

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